Five Days on Prince Edwards Island – Day 2

Five Days on Prince Edwards Island – Day 2

Finally, the first leg of my Cross-Canada trip: Prince Edward Island! Here is a link to Day 1.

Today, I was going to start testing a theory.  A few years ago, the provinces of New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island started tourism campaigns claiming their shores were warmer than those in Maine in the attempt to lure Quebecers to vacation there. Some friends swore by these Canadian beaches, but I was still unconvinced. This was my opportunity to try out as many beaches in Canada as I could for myself and give my verdict. Stay tuned, I should have an answer for you by August 21, when my summer traveling comes to an end.

Central Coast Drive PEI
Central Coast Drive PEI
Credit: PEI Tourism

Day 2

I woke with the sun, made coffee and hiked on Homestead Trail, a 5 km stroll right by the Cavendish Campground. When I got back, I loaded up the car and headed to Charlottetown. To ensure I didn’t miss anything, I traveled counterclockwise along the Central Coast Drive. The Central Coastal Drive is 253 km of Prince Edward Island scenic landscapes, red cliffs, white-sand beaches and farmland views. Access to ALL PEI provincial parks and beaches is FREE, and they are all exceedingly well maintained. I guess that’s where the bridge toll dollars go to!

Cabot Beach Provincial Park

Cabot Beach, located within the Green Gables Shore, is the largest park in western PEI. This beautiful park has a large day-use area with playground equipment, an activity centre with children’s programs. There is also supervised swimming on scenic Malpeque Bay, and the historical Fanning School. Such a blissful spot for my second cup of coffee!

The Countryside

The roads in Prince Edward Island are beautiful and a joy to drive. I was averaging 5 hours of driving per day to ensure I visited as many spots as possible while still putting in a decent amount of beach time. This was not a hardship. Everything was so beautiful. I was most impressed by manicured farmland overlooking the ocean. Imagine cultivating potatoes while you stare out at the surf!

Chelton Beach Provincial Park

Chelton Beach, located within the Red Sands Shore touring region, is just off route 10 from Bedeque. Chelton Beach is a day use park featuring playground equipment, supervised beach, showers, flush toilets and canteen. Pets are permitted on leash. Naturally, the sand on the beach was a reddish brown, though the water was clear enough and warm. I was most impressed with the waves here. A good place for bodysurfing. And at this hour (around 8 am on a Sunday), the perfect spot for a little yoga and meditation. Namaste!

Victoria-by-the-Sea

Up next was Victoria-by-the-sea, is a lovely seaside village on the southern shore, typical of picture postcards! Also, it is apparently home to PEI’s Biggest Tree! The American Elm tree in Victoria was named the winner of the P.E.I. Great Big Tree Challenge. The tree was measured in at 108 feet tall with a nearly 21-foot circumference and a 129-foot canopy.

Argyle Shore Provincial Park

I got my first real glimpse of a ‘red sea’ at Argyle Shore Provincial Park. Located on route 19, Argyle Shore is a day use park offering an unsupervised beach, playground equipment, picnic facilities, showers and flush toilets. Pets are permitted on leash.

Skmaqn–Port-la-Joye–Fort Amherst National Historic Site

 

According to Parks Canada, Originally established by the French in 1720, Skmaqn–Port-la-Joye–Fort Amherst commemorates the first permanent European settlement on Île Saint-Jean (today Prince Edward Island). After falling to British forces in 1758 it became the site of a major deportation of French and Acadian settlers. A Grand Alliance was forged here between the Mi’kmaq and French – one of only two locations in North America where this was celebrated annually with speeches, gifting, and feasting. The fort’s grassy ruins are still visible, and interpretive panels explore its rich history. The grounds also offer superb views of the surrounding countryside and Charlottetown Harbour.

After a few hours of driving, I was ready to stretch my legs. Though a historical site, Port-la-Joye had quite a few easy trails to choose from.

Blockhouse Point Lighthouse

Blockhouse Point Lighthouse is located on the west side of the entrance to Charlottetown Harbour, overlooking Northumberland Strait on the south shore of Prince Edward Island. This historic area was the site of large Mi’kmaq gatherings each summer. In 1720, the French established a settlement called Port-la-Joye nearby, and in 1758 the British built Fort Amherst to assert control over the area.

Charlottetown

According to Wikipedia, Charlottetown is the capital of Prince Edward Island. It’s on the southern coast of the province. The Province House National Historic Site hosted the Charlottetown Conference of 1864, spurring the country’s birth. Victoria Row has shops, restaurants and the Confederation Centre of the Arts, with its musical based on “Anne of Green Gables.” Nearby is the Gothic Revival St. Dunstan’s Basilica.

It’s a quaint coastal town and everyone seems friendly and welcoming. Parking was easily accessible, and most of the attractions can be reached on foot.

Dalvay by the Sea

Dalvay-by-the-Sea is a National Historic Site of Canada located on the north shore of Prince Edward Island at the eastern end of Prince Edward Island National Park. The most significant feature of Dalvay is the Queen Anne Revival style hotel, originally constructed as a home for an American industrialist.

The hotel is a popular attraction for visitors to Prince Edward Island and has been featured in the Anne of Green Gables movies. The venue also served as the fictional White Sands Hotel in the Canadian Road to Avonlea television series. (source: Wikipedia)

I am unfortunately not a fan of either series, so this is the only landmark I’ll be reporting on. If you are a fan, half of the Island will be a dream come true for you! Meanwhile, I’ve taken many pictures, mostly because I was enamored with the house…

Stanhope Beach

According to Welcome PEI, Stanhope Beach is located in PEI National Park just 23km from Charlottetown.  Stanhope has dunes for miles and much less traffic than Brackley or Cavendish Beaches. It’s more popular with local residents and cottage dwellers while still offering facilities and impeccable dunes like other North Shore beaches. Stanhope Beach is a protected area. This is a nesting habitat for the endangered Piping Plover so no pets are permitted. The dunes are also part of the protected landscape as PEI’s north shore loses more than 1ft of land per year to coastal erosion. Efforts to transplant and protect the marram grasses (dune grass) are ongoing. Help the cause by staying on designated paths and boardwalks. Stanhope is a supervised beach.

Cavendish Beach

One of P.E.I`s major summertime destinations, Cavendish offers activities for visitors of all ages. Amusement parks such as Shining Waters Family Fun Park provide fun and games for the entire family while the Cavendish Boardwalk offers a variety of shopping and eating opportunities. The neighboring National Park offers visitors the chance to relax on one of the many splendid beaches while the Homestead Trail provides countless panoramic shoreline views amidst nature’s quiet splendor. (Source: Tourism PEI)

Blue Mussel Cafe

Just before retiring to my beachfront tent, I stopped to have a sunset meal at Blue Mussel Café, a seasonal seafood restaurant located in North Rustico Harbour. I was in the mood for good seafood and I was not disappointed! The food was amazing and the service was delightful! And that chocolate cake was sinful!!!

Good night, and see you tomorrow!

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